The Janki Guide to Gemstones
Understanding the Stone Behind the Beauty
A gemstone is much more than a beautiful stone set into a piece of jewellery. Its colour, clarity, origin, treatment, durability and rarity all contribute to what makes it special and, ultimately, what determines its value.
At Janki, we believe that understanding a gemstone should be part of the buying experience. Whether you are purchasing a gemstone for jewellery, choosing a stone for an important occasion, looking for an astrological gemstone or simply trying to understand the difference between two stones that appear similar, having the right information allows you to make a confident decision.
Our gemstone sourcing and evaluation is guided by Aniruddh, a Graduate Gemologist from the Gemological Institute of America, GIA, in New York. With a professional understanding of gemology and years of experience in the jewellery business, Aniruddh believes that customers should have access to straightforward and honest advice before making an investment in a gemstone.
If you have a question about a gemstone you are considering, you can speak with him directly.
Call or WhatsApp Aniruddh: +91 9799121700
There is no need to know the technical terminology beforehand. Ask what you would like to know, and we will help you understand it.
What Is a Gemstone?
Gemstones are naturally occurring minerals or organic materials that are valued for their beauty, rarity and durability and are suitable for use in jewellery.
Most gemstones are formed deep within the earth through geological processes that can take millions of years. During their formation, variations in temperature, pressure and the presence of different elements create the colours, inclusions and characteristics that make each stone individual.
A gemstone's value is influenced by many factors. Colour, clarity, cut and carat weight are important, but they are not the only considerations. Rarity, origin, treatment, durability and overall beauty can also have a significant effect on value.
This is why two stones that look broadly similar can have very different prices.
Carat weight tells you how much a gemstone weighs. It does not, by itself, tell you how valuable the stone is.
Natural, Synthetic and Imitation Gemstones
One of the first things to understand when purchasing a gemstone is where it came from.
A natural gemstone is formed by nature. It may subsequently undergo treatments that improve its colour, clarity or appearance, but its formation is natural.
A synthetic gemstone is created by people in a laboratory or controlled environment. It has essentially the same chemical composition and crystal structure as its natural counterpart. A laboratory created ruby, for example, is still ruby, but its origin is different from that of a natural ruby.
An imitation gemstone is something that resembles another gemstone but does not have the same chemical and physical characteristics. Glass is a common example of an imitation material.
These distinctions are important because natural, synthetic and imitation stones can sometimes look remarkably similar, while their rarity, characteristics and market values can be very different.
Synthetic does not necessarily mean inferior, and natural does not automatically mean exceptional. The important thing is to know exactly what you are buying.
What Makes a Gemstone Valuable?
There is no single rule that determines the value of every coloured gemstone. Different gemstones are judged according to different characteristics, and the relative importance of each factor can vary considerably.
Colour
For many coloured gemstones, colour is the most important consideration.
The hue, tone and saturation of a stone influence both its beauty and its desirability. A vivid, well balanced colour can make a significant difference to value.
Clarity
Clarity refers to the presence of internal inclusions and external characteristics.
Natural gemstones commonly contain inclusions because of the conditions in which they formed. Their presence is not necessarily a negative. In some gemstones, inclusions are expected and may even help establish natural origin.
The ideal clarity depends on the gemstone. A standard that applies to one species cannot automatically be applied to another.
Cut
Cut determines how a gemstone interacts with light.
The proportions, symmetry and finish of a well cut stone can enhance its brilliance, colour and overall appearance. Even excellent rough material can lose much of its potential if it is poorly cut.
Carat Weight
Carat is a unit of weight used for gemstones.
One carat equals 0.2 grams. Carat weight should not be confused with size because gemstones of different densities can have different dimensions despite having the same weight.
Rarity
Rarity can have a substantial effect on value. Some gemstones are relatively abundant, while fine examples of others are exceptionally difficult to find.
An extraordinary natural gemstone may therefore command a price that is far beyond what its size alone would suggest.
Treatment
Treatment is another important consideration.
Many gemstones available in the market have been treated to improve colour, clarity or appearance. Some treatments are widely accepted within the trade, while others can have a greater effect on value, durability or care requirements.
Knowing whether a stone has been treated, what treatment was used and how that treatment affects the stone is an important part of understanding its value.
Gemstone Treatments
Treatment is not automatically a reason to reject a gemstone.
Heat treatment, for example, is an established practice for certain gemstones and is widely encountered in the market. Other treatments include filling, diffusion, irradiation, dyeing, impregnation and coating.
The important question is what has been done to the stone and what that means for you as the buyer.
A treated gemstone can be beautiful and perfectly suitable for jewellery. However, treatment may influence its value, durability and the way it should be cared for.
For this reason, treatment information is particularly important when purchasing higher value gemstones.
How Gemstones Are Tested
A trained gemologist can use a combination of observation and specialised instruments to identify and evaluate gemstones.
Depending on the stone, examination may include assessing optical properties, specific gravity, refractive index, magnification characteristics and other diagnostic features.
Laboratory testing can provide a higher level of examination when required.
A professional laboratory may determine whether a stone is natural or synthetic, identify the gemstone species and variety, detect certain treatments and, for some gemstones, provide an opinion regarding geographic origin.
Not every gemstone needs an extensive laboratory report. The appropriate level of testing depends on the gemstone, its value and the reason for purchasing it.
For a significant gemstone purchase, we can help you understand what type of report would be appropriate.
Gemological Laboratories
A gemological laboratory provides an independent examination of a gemstone and issues a report describing its findings.
Among the internationally recognised names in gemological testing are the Gemological Institute of America, Gübelin Gem Lab, SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute, Lotus Gemology, GRS and IGI.
Different laboratories specialise in different areas and offer different types of reports.
Some reports focus primarily on identification. Others can provide information about treatments, and certain laboratories offer advanced origin analysis for particular gemstones.
The laboratory is therefore only one part of the picture. It is equally important to understand what the report actually covers.
A certificate is useful when you understand what it certifies.
What Does a Gemstone Certificate Tell You?
The information contained in a gemstone report varies depending on the laboratory and the type of examination requested.
A report may include the gemstone species and variety, weight, measurements, colour description, transparency, treatment information and an opinion regarding natural or synthetic origin.
For certain gemstones, a laboratory may also provide an opinion regarding geographic origin.
A report is an important document, but it should not be confused with a statement of value. A laboratory identifies and describes a gemstone according to its examination. The market value of the stone depends on its individual characteristics, rarity, quality, demand and other factors.
This distinction is particularly important when comparing gemstones offered at different prices.
Understanding Gemstone Hardness
When choosing a gemstone for jewellery, durability should always be considered.
The Mohs scale measures a mineral's resistance to scratching. It does not measure its resistance to breaking or chipping.
This distinction matters because a gemstone can be relatively hard while still requiring careful handling.
| Mohs Hardness | Examples | General Suitability |
|---|---|---|
| 10 | Diamond | Excellent for everyday jewellery |
| 9 | Ruby, Sapphire | Excellent for everyday jewellery |
| 8 to 8.5 | Topaz, Spinel | Very good with appropriate care |
| 7 to 7.5 | Quartz, Amethyst, Citrine, Tourmaline | Good for regular wear with care |
| 6.5 to 7 | Peridot, Tanzanite | Better suited to careful wear |
| 6 to 6.5 | Turquoise, Moonstone | Preferable for careful or occasional wear |
| 5 to 6 | Apatite | More suitable for occasional wear |
| 3.5 to 4 | Coral | Delicate and best worn carefully |
| 2 to 2.5 | Amber | Delicate and requires considerable care |
For rings, gemstones are exposed to more contact and impact than they would be in earrings or pendants. Diamond, ruby and sapphire are therefore particularly well suited to everyday rings.
Softer gemstones can still make extraordinary jewellery. They simply require a little more consideration in how and where they are worn.
Hardness is only one part of durability. Toughness, cleavage, fractures, treatment and sensitivity to heat or chemicals should also be taken into account.
Birthstones
Birthstones are gemstones traditionally associated with different months of the year. The exact list can vary between different traditions, but the following associations are widely recognised.
| Month | Common Birthstones |
|---|---|
| January | Garnet |
| February | Amethyst |
| March | Aquamarine |
| April | Diamond |
| May | Emerald |
| June | Pearl, Alexandrite, Moonstone |
| July | Ruby |
| August | Peridot, Spinel |
| September | Sapphire |
| October | Opal, Tourmaline |
| November | Topaz, Citrine |
| December | Turquoise, Tanzanite, Zircon |
Birthstones are particularly popular for personalised jewellery and meaningful gifts.
It is worth remembering that birthstones and astrological gemstones are based on different traditions. A person's birth month does not necessarily determine which gemstone is considered appropriate for astrological purposes.
Astrological Gemstones
Gemstones have been associated with astrology and spiritual traditions for centuries. In Indian Jyotish, particular gemstones are traditionally associated with the nine planetary influences known as the Navagraha.
Common associations include:
| Planet | Traditionally Associated Gemstone |
|---|---|
| Sun | Ruby |
| Moon | Pearl |
| Mars | Red Coral |
| Mercury | Emerald |
| Jupiter | Yellow Sapphire |
| Venus | Diamond |
| Saturn | Blue Sapphire |
| Rahu | Hessonite Garnet |
| Ketu | Cat's Eye |
Astrological recommendations can vary according to the individual's birth chart and the system or practitioner being followed.
For this reason, an astrological gemstone should not be selected solely because it is associated with a particular birth month or zodiac sign.
If you are purchasing a gemstone for astrological purposes, we can help you understand its gemological characteristics, quality, treatment and documentation so you can make an informed purchase.
Natural Does Not Always Mean Better
This is one of the most useful things to understand when buying gemstones.
A natural gemstone can have poor colour, heavy inclusions, fractures, an unsuitable cut or treatments that affect its value or durability.
A laboratory grown gemstone, on the other hand, can possess excellent colour, clarity and physical characteristics and may provide a more accessible alternative.
The right choice depends entirely on what you value.
Some customers specifically want a rare natural gemstone and appreciate its geological history. Others are primarily interested in colour, beauty and price.
Neither preference is wrong.
Our role is to explain the differences clearly so that you can decide what matters most to you.
Choosing the Right Gemstone for Your Jewellery
The gemstone you choose should suit the jewellery you intend to wear.
A ring worn every day requires different considerations from an occasional pendant or pair of earrings.
For everyday rings, hardness, toughness and durability are particularly important. For earrings and pendants, you may have greater flexibility to explore softer or more delicate gemstones.
Your lifestyle should also be considered.
If you work with your hands, participate in sports or prefer jewellery that requires very little maintenance, a durable gemstone may be the better choice.
If the piece is intended primarily for special occasions, you may choose a gemstone based more heavily on colour, rarity or personal significance.
There is no single gemstone that is right for everyone.
How Janki Sources Gemstones
Our approach to sourcing begins with understanding what the customer actually needs.
We consider the gemstone itself, its intended use, the desired colour and appearance, treatment, durability, available documentation and budget before recommending a stone.
The objective is not simply to find the largest gemstone or the most expensive option.
It is to find a stone that offers the right balance of beauty, quality, authenticity and value for the person who will own it.
Our experience in jewellery manufacturing and gemstone sourcing allows us to look beyond what is immediately visible.
A gemstone may have an attractive colour but an unsuitable cut. Another may have excellent clarity but lack the colour intensity you are looking for. A third may offer an exceptional balance of quality and price.
Understanding these differences is where professional gemological knowledge becomes valuable.
What Should You Ask Before Buying a Gemstone?
If you are purchasing a gemstone, do not hesitate to ask questions.
Is the stone natural, synthetic or an imitation?
Has it been treated?
If so, what treatment has been performed?
How does the treatment affect the stone?
What is the gemstone's carat weight and measurement?
How would you describe its colour and clarity?
Is it suitable for the jewellery I intend to make?
Does it have a laboratory report?
Which laboratory issued the report?
What does the report actually confirm?
What makes this particular gemstone worth its price?
How should it be worn and cared for?
A good gemstone purchase should leave you feeling informed, not uncertain.
Speak With Our Gemologist
Choosing a gemstone is often a personal decision, and sometimes you simply want an expert opinion before committing to a purchase.
Aniruddh is a Graduate Gemologist from GIA New York and is available to answer questions directly.
You can contact him whether you are an experienced gemstone buyer or purchasing your first stone.
You can ask about a gemstone you have already purchased, compare stones you are considering, understand a laboratory report, discuss an astrological gemstone or simply learn more about what makes one gemstone different from another.
Call or WhatsApp Aniruddh
+91 9799121700
We believe that expert guidance should be accessible before the purchase, not only after it.
The Janki Approach
For us, gemstone sourcing is not about finding a stone that simply looks impressive under showroom lights.
It is about understanding the material, examining its characteristics and making sure the quality is appropriate for its intended purpose.
Our aim is to source gemstones that offer genuine beauty and sound value, while giving our customers the information they need to make their own decision.
Because when you understand what you are buying, you appreciate it differently.
You see the colour not just as colour, but as part of the stone's character.
You understand that an inclusion is not always a flaw.
You recognise why one gemstone commands a premium over another.
You know why a laboratory report matters and what it can and cannot tell you.
And most importantly, you can purchase with confidence.
At Janki, we believe the finest gemstone is not necessarily the most expensive one. It is the one whose quality, character and value are right for you.
Janki
Exceptional gemstones. Honest guidance. Jewellery chosen with confidence.